I travelled to India with the eager heart of one who wants to exhaust it, to extract one secret, one essence, one story. But India is so diverse, so vast and so powerful that I became seduced by it instead. Delight after delight, tale after tale, enough to fill a travel book, a full chapter of my memoirs.
In the heart of the Rajasthan, Nagaur has weathered the troubles and conflicts of the region. Nagaur Fort was originally built in the 12th century and since then it has remained historically, culturally, and strategically important. Today, it stands as one of the finest examples of Rajput-Mughal architecture, a true testament to the diversity of India.
Glenburn Tea Estate stands out as one of those places that seem infused with a rare patina that never ages nor goes out of fashion: a timeless classic. Perched above a hillock in West Bengal, the Estate features dramatic views of the Himalayas. A wild mountainous spectacle that you can nevertheless enjoy while sipping tea and benefiting from a cultivated and purposeful sense of luxury.
Varanasi is the holiest of holy cities in Hinduism and Jainism. It is full of meaningful and powerful experiences if you know where to look. The Death and Rebirth Walk reveals the spiritual underpinnings of Varanasi. The walk is a simple concept: an expert, certified guide picks you up at your hotel in the evening and from there you venture into the depths of the city by foot.
Nestled in Jodhpur’s prominent north-eastern quarter, RAAS Jodhpur is an enclave of tranquillity amidst the bustle of the Blue City. With breathtaking views of the Mehrangarh, this magnificent boutique hotel sits in the shadow of the imposing fort. RAAS combines ancient architectural gems, such as a stepwell, with a modern approach.
Some two hundred years ago, Ladakhi craftsmen built Stok Palace high up in the mountains in northern India. Today, the Palace is a heritage hotel, managed by the very same royal family for whom it was built. Architectural brilliance and precious legacy are the tenets of this Himalayan gem, an immersive and privileged experience of Tibetan culture and traditions.
Nestled in the middle of the Himalayas, Mary Budden Estate is a tranquil retreat in the mountainous Kumaon region of northern India. The Estate lies within Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary and provides a welcome retreat from all the hassle in this off-the-beaten-track corner of India. A place with a rich history, it is lovingly maintained and a family-run 19th-century homestay.
I am on a safari at Pench National Park, in Central India, right in the geographical centre of the country. Pench is a forest of deciduous trees, mainly teak. It is home to tigers, leopards, wild dogs, jackals, deer and peacocks. It is very appealing to naturalists because it is practically unknown to tourists. There is an opportunity for more intimate encounters, especially with the tiger.
Amit Sankhala is one of the most renowned names in Tiger Conservation. Using travel as a powerful tool to aid India’s big cat, he has become an innovative force in luxury travel, shifting the focus from exploitation to deeply rewarding wildlife experiences. He is, by all rights, this generation’s Tiger Man of India.
What would be the best way to experience the Indian wilderness? Certainly not to seclude yourself in a normal hotel with all the trappings of modernity. Thankfully you do not have to forgo luxury to get the best of wild India, near Pench National Park. Jamtara Wilderness Camp is a throwback to olden days when comfort and far afield excursions were one and the same.
